Well, here we are for this month's Shop Talk. As I
alluded to last month, we're going to talk about carpet
selection and installation. A seemingly simple topic,
but it can get complicated very quickly. The biggest
question is what type of carpet you want to use. If
you're restoring your ride to the original condition then
this question is already answered for you. In 1953 GM
started using what is known as Daytona Loop. They
kept it until 1956. Then, in 1957 they introduced what
is known as 80/20 loop and kept a version of it until
the mid 80's. The only change they every made to it
was in 1959 they introduced what was known as Salt
& Pepper or tuxedo carpet. Which has black specs all
through the carpet. They kept this until the end of 1962
when they went back to solid colors.
Most carpet kits are either dielectrically molded or cut
& sewn. Molded is just what it sounds like-it is
already pre-molded using a heat and vacuum
process. Cut & sewn is just what is sounds like as
well-it is a carpet that is cut to fit and sewn into a
particular shape or pattern. I prefer molded carpet. It is
usually easier to install and will hold its shape as long
as you own the car. Before you buy any carpet, make
sure that it comes with some form of insulation and
has a vinyl or leather binding sewn onto the edge.
Even though most carpet comes with insulation, I
would recommend that you add some extra insulation
under your carpet. We do offer an extra insulation that
you can buy, which is item #2248 and sells for $25.00
a roll. You will also need some spray adhesive to hold
it down which is #2265 and sells for $10.00 a can.
The average car will take 2 =BD to 3 rolls and 2 cans of
spray to install and the average truck will need 1 =BD
rolls and a single can of spray. You can also use a
product called Dynamatt. It does a great job at sound
insulation, not as good on heat, but sound insulation
is second to none.
Installing carpet is a simple process. Start by
gathering all necessary supplies. The first thing is the
carpet and insulation. I would also recommend
replacing the door sill plates at this time. Nothing
looks worse than brand new carpet and old sill plates.
Start by laying the carpet out in the sun or in a very
warm room. This will allow the carpet fit better. Next,
remove the front and rear seats. If your ride has a
console, now is a good time to take a measurement
so you won't have to guess where to put it back. Then
remove the old sill plates, followed by the carpet. After
you remove the carpet, use a shop vac to suck up any
loose debris and foreign material. Now is also a good
time to see how much loose change you have under
the carpet. The first truck I ever restored was in 1990
and I found over twenty dollars in loose change under
the carpet of my 1972 Chevy truck.
Next, wash the floor pan with a mild soap and water.
This will leave the surface clean for any spray
adhesive or self adhesive insulation to stick. Take the
time to cut and fit your insulation to the floor pan. This
will allow for a better fit and allow the carpet to lay
down better. Next, lay down the new carpet. If you are
still having a problem with the carpet fitting around
tight corners or over the transmission hump, then use
a steam iron to warm up those areas and that will
help you fit the carpet.
Next, install the rear seat and then the front seat and
console if you should have one. A tip for helping find
the bolt holes for the seats and console: You can use
a sharp ice pick or awl to locate the holes on the
underneath side. Finish off by installing the new or
restored sill plates.
Next month we're going to talk about radios,
speakers, and other sound system parts.
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